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Paddling Lake Superior

Cliff Jumping!

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9/15 Journal 9/17 Journal 9/19 Journal

Previous weather data
Posted09/19/2002 10 PM
Temp F
66
Barometric Pressure
30.58    
lures lost
3
%Humidity
66
Distance Traveled
0
Hours of travel
0

It has been many years since I have been without a beard, and I am sure that it will take a while to get used to the feeling of having a cleanly shaven face. As we walk the 8 1/2 mile Grand Portage tomorrow, following the footsteps of countless voyageurs, I think it is appropriate that I honor them by following their custom of shaving before arriving at a great fort such as Grand Portage.

The votes are in for our second poll and it looks like Eric and I will be trying to catch some fish for a fish fry feast to celebrate the completion of our great trek across this great trail. After loosing a few too many fish and lures to broken line over the past few days I have put new line on my real in anticipation for the fish of the Boundary Waters.

Now it is up to you do decide what type of shelter we should investigate. So do some head scratching, soul searching, and lively class discussing. We are counting on you to make well thought out choices when you go to the polls!


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The votes are in, and Dave is freshly shaven, ready to join the legions of voyageurs who came before!


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The Witch Tree was one of the most impressive trees we've ever come across. It's ability to grow out of granite without soil is a testament to nature's ability to surprise.


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Offerings, inside this beaded bag, have been left at the Witch Tree for centuries. The Ojibwe taught the voyageurs to pay homage to the gods of the tree to ensure safe travels. What do you think is in the bag? Post your answers on the message board.


The water was mirror smooth as we paddle around Hat Point in search of the Witch Tree. Without an experienced voyageur guide to lead us, we did not know the exact location of this legendary tree and found a good excuse to poke around in all of the rocky nooks and crannies in our search for the gnarled cedar. As we entered a small bay we were surrounded by several hundred sea gulls. They were perched on rocks, floating in the calm waters, and circling overhead, causing a great raucous. A head popped out of a little fishing shack on shore, and we paddled over for a visit. Lloyd told us that his father had come over from Scandinavia in the late 1800's and homesteaded the land he was standing on. He told us story after story and exclaimed that the Lake Trout population was a strong as he has ever seen. Lake trout are native to Lake Superior and a healthy population is a sign of a healthy lake. After a few minutes he returned to his daily task of cleaning his catch, and we paddled 100 yards down the shore to the Witch Tree.

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Commercial fishermen on Lake Superior are becoming more and more rare. Although, Lloyd Hendrickson and his wife, display their impressive 20 pound lake trouts.


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Frosty wonders about the possibility of doing a learning adventure from inside an Ojibwe wigwam at the Grand Portage National Monument.

After marveling over the Witch Tree for a long while we hopped back in our canoe and around Hat Point. As we rounded the point we saw the Grand Portage fort in the distance and could make out the path that we would follow over the Grand Portage in the coming days. Thoughts of voyageurs arriving from Montreal swirled in my head, and I could almost hear the canons firing to welcome use as they did for the great canoe brigades of the past.


We landed at the Fort and walked into the encampment. It was like walking back in time. It was 1796, and the Fort was bustling with activity. Everyone was dressed in traditional clothing and busy mending birch bark canoes, preparing wild rice, tanning moose hides, and preparing beaver pelts for the journey to Montreal and then onto London.

A native woman showed us the vegetables that she is growing in her garden and explained the differences between first growth birch bark and second growth birch bark. After bark is stripped from a birch tree, the tree then re-grows the bark. After about 10 years the second growth bark can be harvested. It is much darker in color and stiffer. It was usually used for making small baskets and other house hold items. First growth bark was preferred for canoes because it is not as brittle.

September is the month that wild rice is traditionally harvested. To the right, Frosty sifts through a makuk, or birch bark basket, full of parched wild rice. The rice then needs to be "danced on" to remove the white husk. The dark kernel of rice is very nutritious and was the staple of Ojibwe diet.

Tomorrow we will visit with the students at the Grand Portage School and then tackle the mighty Grand Portage. We are excited about following this historic trail and uncovering some of its hidden mysteries.


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Previous weather dataBack to top of page

Posted09/17/2002 5 PM
Temp F
63
Barometric Pressure
30.99    
Fish caught
2
%Humidity
42
Distance Traveled
11
Hours of travel
4

For the past two days we have been traveling on Lake Superior. It is the first time that either of us has been in a canoe on this mighty lake. During our planning we built in a few extra days of travel in case the lake would be rough due to its notoriously violent storms.

However the gods of Gitchigumi have been kind to us, welcoming our canoe with blue skies and light tail winds, making for easy travel. We are amazed at the beauty of Lake Superior. Three billion year-old granite walls make up most of the shoreline. This landscape is interrupted by beaches of fist sized rocks made smooth by eons of crashing waves.


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We stopped at an overlook as we drove to our starting point. The grand view made our hearts beat a little faster in anticipation with the journey ahead. In the upper left corner you can see where we are camping tonight, on Little Susie Island.


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The first few paddle strokes of the Jiime Adventure! We need a name for our canoe if you have suggestions post them to the message board.

The water is very clean and clear. At times you can see the lake's bottom. The lake floor looks very close, when in actuality you could be looking thirty or forty feet down. Lake Superior holds one-tenth of the world's fresh water, making it a very important ecosystem. Humans, plants, and other animals, such as bald eagles and mink, all rely on freshwater for survival. Therefore it is of extreme importance that we keep this precious natural resource safe from toxins and other forms of pollution.



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We stumbled onto these bird nests on a small island about one mile from the mainland. We didn't see any birds, but we saw about 100 nests. What species of bird built these nests, and why do they choose to nest here? We are counting on you, so please post your answers.


We have hooked three fish so far and landed two. We ate this one for dinner last night and let another one go this morning. They all appear to be the same species and have weighed between 2 and 5 pounds. The one we ate had pink flesh and tasted really good! Please help us identify these fish. If you think you know what kind of fish we have caught, please post your answers on the message board.

Tomorrow we make that short paddle to Hat Point, home of the Witch Tree. We will have to get up early though, because the forecast calls for increased winds which could mean larger, more dangerous paddling conditions. During this time of year the voyageurs were often wind bound on Lake Superior for days at a time waiting for calmer weather.

The votes are in, and Dave's beard will be coming off! Stay tuned for photos of the Witch Tree, a beardless Dave, our visit to Grand Portage, and a whole lot more!

Previous weather dataBack to top of page

Posted09/15/2002 9 PM
Temp F
56
Barometric Pressure
30.1    
Hours at computers
too many!
%Humidity
53
Distance Traveled
0
Hours of travel
0

It's been a little hectic and very exciting around the Wilderness Classroom office for the last few days. Final preparations and packing are all completed as we prepare to paddle Lake Superior tomorrow morning.

On Thursday and Friday, we drove from Chicago to Kenora, Ontario to drop off food and other supplies that we'll pick up along the adventure. Driving the route gave us a clearer understanding of the natural changes we'll encounter along our route. As we headed north, deeper into the Canadian shield, granite outcrops became more dramatic. The rocks served as visual reminders of the glaciers' power that shaped this unique landscape. Friction, heat, and climatic change are all key ingredients for vast wilderness and exquisite canoe country: the perfect place to conduct a learning adventure.


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Frosty with all of our food in boxes ready to be cached along our route.


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Dave testing out the Satellite Phone and computer this morning. They still work like a charm!


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Yesterday we came across a Moose and Black Bear with in a mile of each other as we were driving along a dirt road north of Tofte, Minnesota. We hope to see a lot more critters in the coming weeks.

 

Putting together a long wilderness trip requires quite a bit of preparation. It's amazing to think that people have been embarking on the same journey for hundreds, if not thousands of years. I wonder how much preparation was involved 200 years ago. Were the travelers as nervous and excited as I?

Of course carrying laptop computers and other technology makes this adventure a bit different than those of the past, but the route that we are about to traverse has seen its fair share of travelers. Native American civilizations like the Ojibwe, Assiniboine, Cree, and Algonquin, French-Canadian voyageurs, and modern day adventurers have been attracted to the boreal forest for an unknown, but consuming purpose. To travel by canoe is to step back into a time where a deeper connection to the earth existed. I like to think that everyone who has visited this area has held the same amount of respect for the solitude and beauty of the area as I do.

Native people and European explorers and settlers have traveled by canoe deep into the Interior of North America for various reasons. The fur trade of the 16th and 17th Centuries ignited a passionate wave of exploration that would ultimately form the United States and Canada.

One of the most important places to the fur trade is Old Fort William. Situated on the Kaministiquia River this trade post was the North West Company's alternative to Grand Portage. The North West Company, together with its rival the Hudson's Bay Company, competed for the thickest beaver furs. These beaver furs would then be exchanged with the native people and shipped back to Montreal and Europe to be made into hats. It may seem a little silly to think that a hat could help cause the formation of the United States and Canada, but it sure did. In the 1790s and up to the 1850s, beaver hats were the most fashionable and necessary article of clothing for men. It is even said that a gentleman would rather be caught without his trousers than without his hat!

As we embark on our journey, consciously moving away from the distractions of civilization, we hope to rekindle the connection to the natural world, traveling in the footsteps of those that came before us. We are very enthusiastic to share all of the adventures yet to be with you all.

 


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Beaver pelts, like the ones seen here at Old Fort William near Thunder Bay, fueled exploration and trade through out North America.

 

The Wilderness Classroom Organization
4605 Grand Ave.
Western Springs, IL 60558
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