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High Temp. 0 F
Low Temp. -12 F
Wind NW 10-20 MPH
Miles Traveled 18
Hours Traveling 8
New Snow
1 Inch
(since last update)

People Seen 4
(since last update)

 
     

 

 
March 6, 2003 Near Dancing Point, Lake Winnipeg

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Traveling on Lake Winnipeg is a good chance to see what it would be like in the Arctic
Tuesday night the temperature plunged to -42 degrees. I woke up every few hours to stoke the stove and was able to keep the tent at -30. The hoods of our sleeping bags were cinched tight, leaving only a small hole for our nose and mouth. The moisture from our breath froze instantly when it hit the cold air, leaving a ring of frost on the edges of our sleeping bags. We must be getting used to the cold because when I stepped out of the tent to feed Lichen and Saylix the -35 day didn't feel all that cold. However, after a few minutes my hands began to throb and I ducked back into the warm tent for breakfast.

We trudged straight into a strong south wind, ducking in behind points for a quick snack. The temperature rose to around 0, but with the wind-chill it was -30. Stopping to take photos, or a drink of water leaves you chilled. Constantly moving is the only way to stay warm.

Fox and wolf track, scoured by the wind were reminders that we are not the only ones out on the lake. Lichen and Saylix sniff at the tracks we pass, undoubtedly learning more from them than we can.

Just before dark we made our way into a thick stand of black spruce. The trees were so thick that that we were barely able to find a path through them. Once inside the maze of trees we were able to find a cozy little spot for our tent, safe from the lakes howling winds.

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Last night we camped in a spruce bog. They're one of the many treasures of the boreal forest.


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The expanding ice buckles under pressure, creating amazing natural sculptures.

Today the wind was from the north, and its cold fingers propelled us down the lake, helping our skis glide across the wind-packed snow. We wound our way through a labyrinth of wind polished chunks of ice jutting out of the lake.

Just as we were starting to look for a good place to camp we spotted a trail leading back into the woods. Being the first signs of humans that we have seen in several days, we decided to investigate. We found two small cabins and 4 friendly fishermen who were as surprised to see us as we were to see them.

We set up camp on the edge of their encampment and joined them for coffee. They are from an Ojibwe village several hours to the south and spend several nights each week here. We enjoyed their company very much and can see why they like fishing and the lifestyle that goes along with it. It is hard work, but the money is good and you can be your own boss. In the morning they we leave to check their nets and we will continue our long walk.


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Commercial fishermen use Bombardiers to check their nets. These ancient vehicles are no longer made, but widely used throughout northern Manitoba

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